BMP

Let’s Talk About Sheaths, Seed Heads, and the Power of Nitrogen

If you’ve been looking close at your lawn lately, especially Bermuda and Zoysia, you’ve probably noticed tough little stalks poking up that aren’t just regular grass blades. Let’s dig a little deeper into what you’re seeing and how to help your lawn look its best.

Parts of the Grass Plant: What’s a Sheath Anyway?

Grass plants are made up of blades and sheaths. The blade is the flat green part we like to see. The sheath wraps around the base of the blade like a protective jacket. When your lawn starts pushing out seed heads, they come right through that sheath, and they’re often stiffer and lighter in color.

This is why your lawn might feel rough underfoot or look uneven even if you just mowed. It’s not growing crazy fast it’s pushing seed stalks, which grow taller and tougher than the leaf blades.

Why the Seed Heads Show Up

Like we talked about last week, seed heads are part of the plant’s natural cycle, often triggered by:

• Warmer temps

• Stress (like drought or compacted soil)

• Not enough nitrogen

And here’s where fertilizer makes a difference.

Feeding Your Lawn Right: Let’s Talk Nitrogen

Nitrogen is the fuel your lawn needs to grow thick, green, and healthy. Without enough of it, grass gets pale, thin, and throws seed heads early.

Here are three solid options we recommend at BES-TEX:

• 16-8-8 + 5% Fe: Great balanced mix. Nitrogen for top growth, phosphorus for roots, and potassium for stress tolerance. Perfect for spring and early summer feedings.

• 21-7-14 + 5% Fe: Stronger nitrogen with a good kick of potassium to help the lawn handle heat and drought.

• 21-0-0 with 24% sulfur: Pure nitrogen boost with sulfur to help with high pH soils, which we see a lot of around San Angelo. Helps unlock nutrients your lawn might already have, but can't use.

Apply these when your grass is actively growing, and water it in well. That sheath we talked about? With the right nutrients, your grass will focus more on growing lush blades and less on going to seed.

Dad-to-Dad Tip: Think of fertilizer like breakfast for your lawn. Skipping it won’t kill it, but it won’t grow right either. Feed it well and mow it sharp. You’ll get a lawn that makes the neighbors take notice (and maybe get a little jealous).

Let us know how we can help.  We’re here to serve.
BES-TEX Supply • 4512 Adobe Dr. • San Angelo, TX 76903 • 325.653.1300 • www.BES-TEX.com

Summer Fungus in Hybrid Bermuda Lawns

Hot days, humid nights, and regular watering perfect for hybrid Bermuda and summer lawn diseases. One of the most common in our area is Brown Patch (Rhizoctonia solani), but Pythium Blight and Leaf Spot can show up too.

How to Spot It

• Brown Patch: Circular, tan/brown patches that seem to grow overnight. Often has a darker ring around the edge.

• Pythium Blight: Slimy, matted turf in the early morning. Looks greasy.

• Leaf Spot: Small, purplish spots on blades that lead to thinning turf.

What Causes It?

• Nighttime watering or daily irrigation

• High humidity or overwatering

• Compacted soil with poor drainage

• Too much nitrogen during hot weather

Let’s clarify: Overfertilizing means applying too much nitrogen in a single application. For example, 16-8-8 at 6.25 lbs/1,000 sq ft gives you 1 lb of nitrogen that’s a safe, effective rate every two weeks. But doubling that to 12.5 lbs/1,000 means 2 lbs of nitrogen at once and that’s when fungus problems start. Bermuda lawns still need 6+ lbs of nitrogen per year, but apply it gradually.

Prevention Tips

• Water early morning only

• Mow with sharp blades at 1.5–2 inches

• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer in peak heat

• Improve airflow (prune nearby trees or shrubs)

Products That Help

1. Heritage G (Azoxystrobin)

• Mode of Action: Prevents fungal respiration, stopping disease before it spreads

• Use: Granular, apply monthly as a preventative

2. Pillar G (Triadimefon + Trifloxystrobin)

• Mode of Action: Dual-actio one stops fungal growth, the other prevents spore production

• Use: Great for active infections fast knockdown

3. Armada 50 WDG (Trifloxystrobin + Tebuconazole)

• Mode of Action: Systemic and contact gives curative and preventive punch

• Use: Mix and spray, rotate with other fungicides to reduce resistance

4. Propiconazole (Banner Maxx)

• Mode of Action: Inhibits fungal cell membrane production, stopping the fungus from growing

• Use: Great for long-lasting control applied every 2-4 weeks during the summer months for disease prevention

If You Already Have It…

• Treat infected areas early, before it spreads

• Use a curative fungicide (like Pillar G or Armada)

• Avoid watering in the evening

• Bag clippings to reduce spread

If you're unsure what you're seeing, bring us a picture or a sample. We'll help you ID the problem and recommend the right treatment plan.

BES-TEX Supply has the fungicides, fertilizers, and real-world advice to keep your lawn looking sharp. Questions? Come see us at 4512 Adobe Dr. or call 325.653.1300.

Mosquito Control Tip

Larval Control (Targeting immature mosquitoes in water)

1. Mosquito Dunks (SUMMIT)  10.31% Bti
   Mode of Action: Bti is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that releases protein toxins, killing mosquito larvae upon ingestion.
   Use: Place in standing water, ponds, birdbaths, rain barrels. Each dunk treats 100 sq. ft. of water for up to 30 days.

2. Altosid Pro-G IGR (ZOECON)  1.5% Methoprene
   Mode of Action: Methoprene is an insect growth regulator (IGR) that mimics juvenile hormone, preventing larvae from maturing into adults.
   Use: Apply granules to water-holding areas such as ditches, troughs, and containers. Controls for up to 30 days.

3. Altosid Liquid Larvicide (ZOECON)  5% Methoprene
   Mode of Action: Same as above but in liquid form, offering precision in smaller or treated urban areas.
   Use: Mix with water and apply to known breeding sites using a sprayer.

4. IN2CARE Bait Sachets  74.03% Pyriproxyfen, 10% Beauveria bassiana
   Mode of Action: Dual action Pyriproxyfen is an IGR, Beauveria is a fungus that infects and kills adult mosquitoes.
   Use: Place sachets inside IN2CARE traps; mosquitoes spread the active ingredients to breeding sites.

Trap-Based Control

5. INZECTO Mosquito Trap (INZECTO)
   Mode of Action: A slow-release formulation containing larvicide and adulticide. Kills both larvae and females entering the trap.
   Use: Set the trap in shaded, moist areas. Replace every 90 days.

6. Mosquito Barrier 2-Pack (AION)  Yeast-Based Lure
   Mode of Action: Produces CO₂ via fermentation to attract female mosquitoes for targeted bait station deployment.
   Use: Activate and place around perimeters, ideal for monitoring and reducing populations.

Adult Control (Targeting flying mosquitoes)

7. Cyonara Lawn & Garden (CONTROL SOLUTIONS)  0.05% Lambda-Cyhalothrin
   Mode of Action: Pyrethroid neurotoxin, causes paralysis and death upon contact.
   Use: Apply with a pump or hose-end sprayer to lawn, shrubs, and outdoor perimeters.

8. Suspend PolyZone (BAYER)  4.75% Deltamethrin
   Mode of Action: Microencapsulated pyrethroid, provides long residual kill of adult mosquitoes.
   Use: Apply to shaded resting areas, under decks, foliage, walls. Rain-resistant.

9. Bifen I/T (CONTROL SOLUTIONS)  7.9% Bifenthrin
   Mode of Action: Broad-spectrum pyrethroid—disrupts nervous system function.
   Use: Mix and spray on lawns, shrubs, and surfaces where mosquitoes rest.

10. Malathion (CONTROL SOLUTIONS)  57% Malathion
    Mode of Action: Organophosphate, blocks acetylcholinesterase, leading to mosquito death.
    Use: Apply only in outdoor, non-edible plant areas. Strong odor, use with caution.

11. Permethrin 10% (CONTROL SOLUTIONS)
    Mode of Action: Contact insecticide, quick knockdown via nerve disruption.
    Use: Dilute and apply as barrier spray to tall grass, fences, and patios.

12. Mosquito Pro RTS (MARTIN’S)  Lambda-Cyhalothrin, Novaluron, Pyriproxyfen
    Mode of Action: Combines knockdown, IGR, and residual control, targets multiple stages.
    Use: Ready-to-spray bottle connects to hose for easy perimeter treatment.

Aerosol Space Sprays (For immediate knockdown)

13. Pystol Farm & Dairy Aerosol (MARTINS)
    Mode of Action: Dual-action pyrethrins + permethrin with PBO to enhance efficacy.
    Use: Spray directly in barn, shed, or outdoor sitting area. Use with caution around pets.

14. 565 Plus XLO (BASF)
    Mode of Action: Synergized pyrethrin with PBO and Bicycloheptene for quick indoor/outdoor knockdown.
    Use: Spot treatment for resting mosquitoes, porches, patios, or inside storage sheds.Let us know how we can help.  We’re here to serve.

    BES-TEX Supply • 4512 Adobe Dr. • San Angelo, TX 76903 • 325.653.1300 • www.BES-TEX.com

Best Management Practices (BMP) for Grub Control in San Angelo, TX
May Edition: The Grubs Are Lurking, But Should We Be Worried?

First, What Is a Grub?

Grubs are not a specific insect, they're the larval stage of several beetles. Think of them as the awkward teenage phase of the beetle world. Common culprits in our West Texas turf include:

• June Beetles (aka May beetles, calendar confusion aside, they’re active spring to summer)

• Masked Chafers

• Occasional Japanese Beetles (less common here, but worth watching)

Life Cycle Breakdown

1. Adults emerge (late spring/early summer) and lay eggs in the soil.

2. Eggs hatch into C-shaped, white-bodied grubs that feed on grassroots.

3. Feeding frenzy continues through fall, then they burrow down to overwinter.

4. Spring warm-up brings them back up briefly before pupating and turning into beetles.

In short: they hide, they chew, they cost you money.

How Many Grubs Is Too Many?

The economic threshold is:

• 0–5 grubs/sq ft: No sweat.

• 6–9 grubs/sq ft: Keep an eye out.

• 10+ grubs/sq ft: Time to suit up and fight back.

That’s the point when you’ll notice patches of turf rolling back like a rug, thanks to root damage.

Control Options, Chemical Edition

Two main players are effective when applied at the right time:

• Imidacloprid (Merit® and similar): Best as a preventative, applied in May–June. Gets absorbed by roots and zaps grubs when they snack.

• Chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn®): Low-risk for pollinators, long-lasting, and works great in May.

Modes of Action

• Imidacloprid: Blocks neural pathways. Grubs stop feeding and check out permanently.

• Chlorantraniliprole: Affects calcium flow in muscles. Basically paralyzes them slowly and permanently.

Grub Pressure in San Angelo A History Lesson

Grub issues spike after wet springs, especially following drought years when beetles get active. However, recent seasons have shown low activity in San Angelo. Low rainfall and hot soil temps may be keeping beetle populations in check. Still, better to scout than be sorry.

BMP Takeaways

• Scout now (first week of May) and again mid-summer.

• Treat preventatively if you had past damage or high beetle activity.

• Don’t overtreat grubs aren’t always the bad guys.

  

Need help picking the right product or identifying grub species?
Come see us at:

BES-TEX Supply
4512 Adobe Dr., San Angelo, TX 76903
325.653.1300
www.BES-TEX.com

Your turf deserves better than a mouthful of beetle babies.

• TifTuf:
  • TifTuf has a denser growth pattern with nodes (sprigs) spaced approximately every ¼ inch along its stolons (runners). This tight spacing results in a thick, lush turf that fills in quickly, leaving less room for weeds to penetrate.
  • It is known for faster establishment and recovery from injury due to its extensive root system and dense growth.
• Tifway 419:
  • Tifway 419 has nodes spaced every ½ to 1 inch, which is less dense than TifTuf but still tighter than common Bermuda grass (1-3 inches). This makes it less compact compared to TifTuf but still suitable for high-traffic areas.
  • It establishes well but may take slightly longer to fill in compared to TifTuf.

• TifTuf:
  • Typically exhibits a light green color, though opinions vary on whether it’s lighter or slightly darker than Tifway 419. Some sources note it holds color longer into the fall and greens up earlier in the spring.
  • With heavy nitrogen and iron fertilization, its color can deepen significantly, potentially matching or exceeding Tifway 419 in vibrancy.
• Tifway 419:
  • Known for a deep emerald green color, which is often described as visually striking.
  • However, it may require more fertilization to maintain this rich color compared to TifTuf, especially in less-than-ideal conditions.

• TifTuf:
  • Superior drought resistance due to its extensive root system, requiring less water than Tifway 419.
  • Improved shade tolerance compared to other Bermuda varieties, though it still prefers full sun. It can handle partial shade better than Tifway 419.
  • Greens up earlier in spring and stays green longer in fall, extending its active growing season.
• Tifway 419:
  • Drought and heat resistant, but not as efficient as TifTuf in water conservation. It was selected for its performance in South Texas, where heat and drought are common, but TifTuf outperforms it in extreme conditions.
  • Less shade-tolerant, requiring more sunlight to thrive compared to TifTuf.

• TifTuf:
  • Requires less frequent watering and fertilization due to its drought resistance and efficient growth.
  • Needs regular mowing (every 4-5 days) at a height of ½ to 1.5 inches to maintain its dense, healthy appearance. Infrequent mowing (e.g., every two weeks) can lead to thinning and a scalped look.
  • Its aggressive growth makes it easier to maintain under neglect compared to other Bermuda varieties.
• Tifway 419:
  • Requires more fertilization to maintain its color and density, especially in high-traffic or shaded areas.
  • Like TifTuf, it benefits from frequent mowing (every 4-5 days) at a similar height to avoid thinning or a wiry appearance.
  • Can look stringy or grayish without adequate care, particularly in suboptimal conditions.

• TifTuf:
  • Often marketed as a “super grass” due to its toughness and low maintenance, making it ideal for home lawns, sports fields, and golf courses.
  • Generally more affordable to produce and purchase because of its ease of farming and fast growth.
• Tifway 419:
  • Originally developed for golf course fairways, it’s widely used for lawns and sports fields due to its durability and aesthetic appeal.
  • Historically, it was more expensive due to a patent, but since the patent expired, it has become more accessible for homeowners and builders.

• TifTuf:
  • Widely available through suppliers like SuperSod, especially in regions like the southeastern U.S. It’s actively promoted as a newer, improved variety.
• Tifway 419:
  • Also widely available, especially in South Texas and other southern regions, but may be less common in some areas compared to TifTuf due to the latter’s rising popularity.

• Choose TifTuf if you want a low-maintenance, drought-resistant, and shade-tolerant Bermuda grass with fast establishment and a slightly lighter green color that can be enhanced with fertilization. It’s ideal for homeowners seeking a resilient, cost-effective lawn.
• Choose Tifway 419 if you prioritize a deep emerald green color and are willing to invest more in fertilization and maintenance. It’s well-suited for high-end lawns or golf courses where aesthetics are paramount.
• Both require frequent mowing to maintain density and avoid thinning, but TifTuf’s superior environmental tolerance and lower input needs make it a more modern, practical choice for many applications.